Along the Hareshaw Burn

I love Hareshaw Linn, so much so have that I have written about the plants there several times on this blog (see here and here). There is just something about remote but lovely dene, with its ancient woodland flora and impressive waterwall that makes me incredibly happy. Despite frequent visits, each time I travel there I manage to see something new and worth talking about so, despite a little repetition, here we are again!

Last weekend, Matt and I had run out of ideas for new places to visit in the local area, so with ferns in mind, we decided to return to our favourite local haunt for a walk along the Hareshaw Burn. Setting out from Bellingham, the walk into the dene was fairly uneventful, apart from the appearance of Downy Currant Ribes spicatum in scrub near the car park and an impressive patch of Good-King-Henry Blitum bonus-henricus in grassland about 100 metres into the walk. Both are elusive plants in the area.

Reaching the dene, we were immediately greeted by a burst of colour from countless woodland flowers, a welcome change given our tendency to visit later in summer, when most of the blooms have faded. The bluebells and anemones had long since passed, but in their place we found plenty of Sanicle Sanicula europaea, along with Wood Crane’s-bill Geranium sylvaticum and Water Avens Geum rivale. Slightly more interesting was the presence of several patches of Hybrid Avens Geum × intermedium, distinguishable by its yellow colouring inherited from its other parent, Wood Avens Geum urbanum.

A little further into the dene, these relatively common woodland flowers faded into insignificance with the discovery of perhaps the day’s most exciting find: Herb-paris Paris quadrifolia. This rare and rather special plant typically grows only in the high quality woodlands and it is a joy to behold under any circumstances. I seem to be on a lucky streak with this species, having already encountered it this year at Letah Woods and Morpeth. However, while I knew it existed somewhere in the area, the Hareshaw population was entirely new to me. We came across a great many plants scattered across an area of about five metres, though realistically there could have been many more.

Prying ourselves away from the Paris, the next portion of the walk brought a few other interesting woodland plants. Common Cow-wheat Melampyrum pratense was a particularly nice find, and a species I rarely encounter, and plenty of Yellow Pimpernel Lysimachia nemorum was also seen along the path edges.

The grasses too were well worth a look with several ancient woodland indicators found in good quantity. By far the most abundant was False Brome Brachypodium sylvaticum, but we also noted Hairy-brome (Bromopsis ramosa), Wood Melick Melica uniflora and Giant Fescue Schedonorus giganteus. The most interesting grass, however, was Wood Fescue Drymochloa sylvatica. This rare species is limited in distribution to just a few parts of the UK, where it grows on near-vertical cliffs, rocky slopes and beside waterfalls. Northumberland supports one of the largest populations, with a strong concentration of sites along the River Tyne.

But what about the ferns? The steep-sided banks of the Hareshaw Burn and Hareshaw Linn are notable for supporting a range of uncommon – and in some cases, extremely rare – ferns. As we wandered along, we spotted many of the more commonplace species with relative ease, including Broad Buckler-fern Dryopteris dilatata, Lady-fern Athyrium filix-femina, Borrer’s Male-fern Dryopteris borreri and Male-fern Dryopteris filix-mas.

Much more exciting, however, was the presence of two rather uncommon ferns typically associated with shaded, humid woodlands like this: Beech Fern Phegopteris connectilis and Oak Fern Gymnocarpium dryopteris. Both are found predominantly in upland areas and tend to grow in moist, undisturbed settings, often on steep banks. Beech Fern in particular is a striking plant, easily recognised by its erect and distinctive ‘rabbit ear’ leaflets, which set it apart from all other species.

Also of note on the fern front was a small buckler-fern found on a steep bank beside the path. On closer inspection, it turned out to be Narrow Buckler-fern Dryopteris carthusiana – a species I must admit to having overlooked on all my previous visits to the site. It can be distinguished from the larger and more abundant Broad Buckler-fern by its uniformly pale scales and its rhizomatous habit, with fronds pointing in separate directions. This contrasts with the typical shuttlecock appearance of the latter species.

We also recorded Hard Shield-fern Polystichum aculeatum along this stretch, but failed to find the hoped-for Lemon-scented Fern Oreopteris limbosperma.

Eventually, we reached the picturesque waterfall at Hareshaw Linn and after a spot of lunch, set about exploring the ferns growing on the steep limestone cliffs nearby. The rarest fern on site turned out to be the easiest to find, with hundreds of specimens of Lobed Maidenhair Spleenwort Asplenium trichomanes subsp. pachyrachis spotted during our short visit. I’ve written about this attractive little fern before, but suffice it to say that Hareshaw Linn is the only place in Northumberland where this subspecies can be seen.

Also present on the falls, though far rarer, was Green Spleenwort Asplenium viride – seen clinging to the cliff face. This species appears to be just barely hanging on here. Brittle Bladder-fern Cystopteris fragilis was thankfully more widespread and added a final touch of interest before we turned for home.

Frustrating Ferns at Hareshaw Linn

I must confess that although I have been botanising for some time now, ferns have proven a difficult group to master. Indeed, master is probably the wrong word as despite countless trips in search of the species found across North East England, I am still but a novice. Or perhaps an improver!

Despite the difficulties associated with telling many of them apart, August is a great month to look closer at ferns and last week, I decided it was high time I bit the bullet and factored them into the programme of ‘Botanists Year’ trips I am currently leading for the Natural History Society. Knowing the perfect place, with 10 botanists in toe, we decided on a visit to the pteridologist’s paradise that is Hareshaw Linn in Northumberland.

Starting out, a variety of common and widespread ferns were easy to find as we made our way into the wooded valley. Broad Buckler-fern (Dryopteris dilatata), Bracken (Pteridium aquilinum) and Male-fern (Dryopteris filix-mas) came first, followed by the distinctive Hard-fern (Blechnum spicant) and later, some rather nice stands of Polypody (Polypodium vulgare). Upon scrutiny when I returned home, these were confirmed to the be common sort.

In the initial stages of our walk at Hareshaw Linn, several other interesting plants were noted too including Wood Melick (Melica uniflora), Giant Fescue (Schedonorus giganteus) and a sizeable patch of Good-king-henry (Blitum bonus-henricus) but ferns soon rose to the fore once more with new additions in Lady-fern (Athyrium filix-femina), with it’s lovely j-shaped sori, and the first of the day’s scaly male-ferns. After a closer look, this was revealed to be Golden-scaled Male-fern (Dryopteris affinis) on account of the rounded, toothed lower pinnule.

In my experience, most of the scaly male-ferns I check near Newcastle turn out to be Borrer’s Male-fern (Dryopteris borreri) but this did not appear to be the case at Hareshaw. Indeed, checking dozens of ferns along the initial leg of our walk, almost all proved to be affinis. We did, however, find a nice example of Borrer’s Male-fern a little further into the Linn, spending some time ogling its distinctive, square pinnules.

This aside, other new ferns included Soft Shield-fern (Polystichum setiferum), likely a new colonist at this site, and Hard Shield-fern (Polystichum aculeatum) which provided a nice opportunity for comparison. Other notable plants included Wood Horsetail (Equisetum sylvaticum) and Marsh Hawk’s-beard (Crepis paludosa).

The first true highlights came after crossing a small bridge in a deeper part of the Linn where we encountered an entirely new species for me in Beech Fern (Phegopteris connectilis). A rather rare species in our area, this fern is much more numerous in parts of Scotland, Cumbria and Wales were it favours woodlands dominated by Oak. It proved to be quite the lovely little plant.

Pausing for lunch about midway into the wood, we were pleased to stumble across a bankside strewn with Oak Fern (Gymnocarpium dryopteris) – a species I see very infrequently in the North East. This proved ample compensation for failing to find even a single example of Lemon-scented Fern (Oreopteris limbosperma) which I know from past walks inhabits the site also. Keen to add a few more species to our swelling tally, from here it was a straight hike to the site’s famed waterfall where a few more species awaited.

Arriving at the waterfall, we were pleased to note several examples of Hart’s-tongue (Asplenium scolopendrium), a typically common fern that had proved conspicuously absent thus far during our trip. The real excitement here was to be found in the walls of the ravine however, where, alongside some nice examples of Brittle Bladder-fern (Cystopteris fragilis) the group found many examples of Lobed Maidenhair Spleenwort (Asplenium trichomanes subsp. pachyrachis) – this being the only place you can see this lovely little fern in all of Northumberland. The subspecies of Maidenhair Spleenwort differs from that we see in garden walls in having scalloped margins to the leaflets and grows mainly on limestone outcrops, typically where conditions are very humid.

Interestingly, I had also expected to find Green Spleenwort (Asplenium viride) on this outcrop also, having noted it on trips in 2020 and 2022. Hopefully it is still kicking about there somewhere…

I make that 15 fern species in just a few hours – not bad going at all. In reality, the total was 18 including Wall-rue (Asplenium ruta-muraria), Maidenhair Spleenwort (Asplenium trichomanes subsp. quadrivalens) and Black Spleenwort (Asplenium adiantum-nigrum) observed as we departed from Newcastle. All in all, the trip was a success and I would strongly recommend that anyone with a penchant for ferns pay Hareshaw Linn a visit. You will not leave disappointed.

A Winter Walk at Hareshaw Linn

A short account of a frosty trip to Hareshaw Linn in Northumberland last weekend

Hareshaw Linn, a designated SSSI near Bellingham in Northumberland, is a truly lovely spot. One which I have visited previously in summer (writing about it here) but never during the colder months. Given the site’s reputation as a botanical hotspot perhaps that is little wonder – most plants tend to vanish in winter – but keen to get out and about in the winter air, we thought we would give it a go anyway. We certainly weren’t disappointed.

Ferns are a real specialty of Hareshaw Linn with the wooded valley and shady slopes here playing host to myriad rare and unusual species. While many of the ground-dwelling species had been flattened by recent frosts, during our walk, we noted several species including Lady-fern (Athyrium filix-femina), Male-fern (Dryopteris filix-mas) and Hard-fern (Blechnum spicant). The scaly ferns had taken a battering but it was still possible to discern Golden-scaled Male-fern (Dryopteris affinis) and its cousin, Borrer’s Scaly Male-fern (Dryopteris borreri). Hard Shield-fern (Polystichum aculeatum) with its rigid fronds also proved numerous – a welcome change to other sites I have visited recently.

Ferns growing higher up on rocks and trees seemed to have fared better than their relatives on the floor. On tree trunks strewn throughout the gorge, we noted both Common Polypody (Polypodium vulgare) and Intermediate Polypody (Polypodium interjectum), while boulders held Brittle Bladder-fern (Cystopteris fragilis) too. Of course, the area around the waterfall proved most productive with both local specialties observed. Lobed Maidenhair Spleenwort (Asplenium trichomanes subsp. pachyrachis) can be seen in good numbers here at its only Northumberland site. Green Spleenwort (Asplenium viride) was harder to come by but still present.

Of course, ferns are not the only thing to appreciate about Hareshaw Linn. The site is rather beautiful in any season but now, in the depths of winter, looks remarkable clad in snow and ice. Given the sub-zero temperatures, the famed waterfall here had partially frozen making for an impressive sight. Better still was the presence of ice pancakes on the burn itself. Believed to form when foam floating on the water’s surface begins to freeze, this was the first time either of us had seen these. An impressive sight!

While everything looked more than a tad wintery at the Linn, signs of spring could also be seen and heard. The leaves of typical spring flowers such as Wood Anemone (Anemone nemorosa) had begun to appear and in the wood, various birds had begun singing. It was nice to catch the drumming of Great Spotted Woodpecker (Dendrocopos major) in particular.

A festival of ferns at Hareshaw Linn

An account of a fantastic day spent exploring fern identification at the glorious Hareshaw Linn.

Ferns have always scared me a little if I am honest. Sure, I can identify the easier ones but by large, I often ignore them on my travels in favour of less intimidating flowers. That said, I have been keen to improve my fern identification skills for a while now and on Friday set out with a friend to one of the most fern-rich sites in Northern England.

Hareshaw Linn is SSSI designated for its rare ferns and bryophytes. A scenic river gorge sporting ancient woodland and a rather beautiful waterfall, it is a site I had always wanted to visit but had not yet had the chance. Until now. Expectations already high, I am pleased to say I was not disappointed with fourteen fern species observed during our stay, including several new for me.

Starting out

Having given only an obligatory glance to the Male Fern (Dryopteris filix-mas) during our walk in, it wasn’t long until the first of the day’s more interesting ferns was discovered. The pictures below show Lady-fern (Athyrium filix-femina) found growing beside the path through the gorge. A lovely, feathery species with distinctive crescent-shaped sori, the best way to identify them is, of course, to turn them over.

Next up, a new species for me and further into the gorge, it was great to finally stumble across Lemon-scented Fern (Oreopteris limbosperma). Quite a nice one to identify, the best way to tell it apart from the pack is that the pinnae decrease in size as they go down the stem. It also gives off a pleasant citrus smell when crushed.

Hardly worthy of a mention but two more abundant ferns were added here too: Bracken (Pteridium aquilinum) and Broad Buckler-fern (Dryopteris dilatata).

Feeling brave, further into the walk, we decided to take a quick look at some of the other Dryopteris on site. I think the fern pictured below is a Golden-scaly Male Fern (Dryopteris affinis) having ruled out the Narrow-scaly Male Fern (Dryopteris cambrensis) based on the length of the lowest pair of pinnules. It also didn’t seem to fit Borrer’s Scaly Male Fern (Dryopteris borreri) either but I’d be happy to be corrected!

Moving on, new ferns soon started to come thick and fast. First came the first of many Hard Shield Ferns (Polystichum aculeatum) spotted during the trip and secondly, lots of Hard Fern (Blechnum spicant). Feeling empowered by the earlier male fern, we also chose to take a closer look at the Polypodys growing alongside the river. With pointed tips and fronds which gradually taper towards the top and bottom, I think these were Intermediate Polypody (Polypodium interjectum).

Nine species and counting

Drawing closer to the waterfall, a quick detour from the track revealed another new species for the day: Oak Fern (Gymnocarpium dryopteris). With fronds split roughly into three triangles, this is another nice one to identify and another new species for me.

Reaching the waterfall, it was difficult not to be taken aback by the visible storm damage. The plunge pool beneath the waterfall was littered with the corpses of felled trees, likely brought down during Storm Arwen. I wouldn’t have liked to be here that night…

Back to the ferns, and Hareshaw Linn is the only North East site for the rare Lobed Maidenhair Spleenwort (Asplenium trichomanes subsp. pachyrachis). A nationally scarce subspecies of Maidenhair Spleenwort, the difference between them comes from the lobed, crinkley-looking pinnae. We saw many plants during our stay, all concentrated around the waterfall where they grow within cracks in the bedrock.

Here too, the steep cliffs of the gorge and fallen rocks beneath them held a number of other ferns. Some, like Hart’s-tongue (Asplenium scolopendrium) were somewhat common, though others much less so. Green Spleenwort (Asplenium viride) is a rare species locally and took some finding among the much more numerous Maidenhair Spleenwort.

Slightly more conspicuous, Brittle Bladder-fern (Cystopteris fragilis) could be seen in abundance too. The latter species concluded the day’s tally at a very respectable 14 fern species.

Other wildlife

While ferns were the purpose of the day’s trip, plenty of other wildlife was seen at Hareshaw Linn. The plantlife was particularly interesting with sightings of several species I see infrequently in the North East. Among these, Wood Horsetail (Equisetum sylvaticum), Wood Melick (Melica uniflora) and Marsh Hawk’s-beard (Crepis paludosa). Of course, several Giant Bellflowers (Campanula latifolia) were also a highlight.

The combination of beaming sun and rain showers did not prove overly encouraging to insects. However, we did see a few goodies including new hoverflies for me in Epistrophe grossulariae and Leucozona laternaria. Returning to the car park, the bee below was also spotted foraging on a Solidago sp. Thanks to Chris, this was revealed to be Grey-banded Mining Bee (Andrena denticulata), an incredibly rare species in our region.