Trip Report: Extremadura (Parte II)

It’s been a while since my fabulous trip to Extremadura courtesy of the great people at the Spanish Tourist Board. Only now did I realise that I left off half way through my exploits. Well, here it goes, a breif(ish) summary of part two.

When I concluded the last post I had just finished a a trip to the wonderful Extremadura bird fair. Well, following a great day here we set off for another location in Monfragüe National Park, this time with the intent of catching up with a true Iberian icon – the Spanish Imperial Eagle. Arriving at the Portilla del Tiétar things, at first, did not appear overly promising, the hoped for eagles nowhere in sight. This was of little consequence however with more than enough species on show to keep us entertained, among these a superb Blue Rock Thursh, a number of Griffon Vultures and, of course, heaps of Serin. As the time ticked by, the likelihood of catching up with the imposing raptors diminished though mere moments before we boarded the bus to depart an excited yell heralded the arrival of our target species. A stonking male Spanish Imperial Eagle which performed admirably for a good quarter of an hour, much to our delight. Said bird can be seen in the not so good image below. From here, and hoping to prolong our avian-centric high, another trip to the Salto del Gitano where Black Stork, Blue Rock Thrush, Black Vulture and Sardinian Warbler brought the day to a close with a welcome touch of glamour.

 

 

The next day found us venturing into another habitat entirely, the vast plains of Santa Marta de Magasca – an area unlike anywhere I have had the pleasure to visit previously, vast expanses of grassland rife with wildflowers making for a truly splendid day. Each and every stop here produced something new and exciting; Calandra Lark belting out song all day long and both Red and Black Kite proving more than abundant. The first highlight here came in the form of nice scope views of a flock of Great Bustard – their hulking frames easily picked out when scanning the surrounding hillsides. Next, not one but two fantastic Short-Toed Eagle followed by a flock of 20-30 Pin-Tailed Sandgrouse. The latter one of my personal “most sought after species” of the trip. Proceeding this, a pair of Black-Bellied Sandgrouse were expertly picked out by Godfried our guide, great views obtained as they foraged not overly far from the track. Next came Zitting Cristcola, hoards of Corn Bunting and three wonderful Lesser Kestrel which flaunted themselves for a good while by the roadside. Much daintier and arguably, more appealing than their larger cousins.

Before heading off to the picturesque surroundings of Merida, a finally stop on the plains yielded another surprise. A Great Spotted Cuckoo which lifted from the grass before me as I unceremoniously tried to find a secluded spot to relieve myself. Definitely a new addition to my “birding while peeing” list!  Also here a smart pair of Spanish Sparrow fed nearby – another new bird for the trip and a Hoopoe was noted. These, alongside yet more Zitting Cristcola, Calandra Lark, Raven, Lesser Kestrel and another Short-Toed Eagle made the final pittstop a thoroughly enjoyable one. Onward to Merida..

Rendezvousing with the second group on the historic (and quite frankly, beautiful) roman bridge in Merida we now set about birding in a new, wetland setting. Though I missed Penduline Tit here the river held more than enough to mitigate my losses. First came an Osprey, passing directly overhead – no doubt on route back from its wintering quarters in Africa. Next, Purple Swamphen, two of which showed well beneath the bridge in the company of some much more familiar critters; MoorhenLittle EgretMuscovy Duck and their like. Pottering further along the bridge, a Glossy Ibis was picked up feeding in the shallows perhaps a quarter of a mile up stream. This, of course, warranted further investigation thus off we went, aiming to get just a little closer to the bird.

Walking along the bank towards the Ibis, another Purple Swamphen proved enjoyable as did the addition of Great Crested Grebe to the proceedings though the real surprise came when a Little Bittern lifted out of the reeds a mere meter or so from where we stood on the bank. Wow – of course this was another “lifer” but what really stuck me was the sheer beauty of the bird itself. Definitely one of my all time favorites and perhaps the highlight of the whole trip, made even better by the constant singing of Cetti’s Warblers and good views of the Glossy Ibis – when we finally got there.

Following a day of urban birding in Zafra where Lesser Kestrel, Pallid SwiftBlack Redstart and Blue Rock Thursh delighted – our next major outing found us heading for Alange. Our first stop here leaving me wrought with excitement; catching up with yet another sought after target – Eagle Owl. The bird in question showing reasonable well as it watched us from an outcrop not far from the town. Nearby, a colony of Alpine Swifts proved equally as delightful while Little Bittern, Bonelli’s Eagle and Black Wheatear comprised the other highlights. Later that day a brief stop at Alcollarín Reservoir yielded a drake  Ferruginous Duck in the company of a good number of more common duck species alongside White StorkCattle Egret, Sardinian Warbler, Great White Egret and a pair of Egyptian Geese – they really are everywhere!

Concluding the trip in style, our journey back to Madrid was broken up somewhat with a fantastic stop at the Arrocampo Reservoir – perhaps the most productive hour of the whole trip! Here things started off well, Hoopoe, Iberian Grey Shrike, Crested Lark and Wheatear cropping up immediately after vacating the bus. Things soon got better however as we made our way to the wetlands and were straight away greeted by a rather nice Bluethroat. Not a male but a new bird for this novice nonetheless. Four Snipe were also seen here, as was a Black-Winged Stilt and more interesting, a Black-Winged Kite patrolling the distant margin. From here we set out for the hide, catching only the briefest glimpse of a likely Spotted Crake on route and enjoying the frantic squeals of innumerable Water Rail. The hide was marvelous, Spoonbill and Great White Egret noted upon arrival and after a short wait, a pair of Purple Heron – both of which landed only a few meters away. Heading back, a pair of Garganey showed well alongside yet another Little Bittern and two more Purple Swamphen. Not a bad stop eh?

So, that’s that. A relatively brief summary of the fantastic second half of our Extremadura venture. All in all the trip was sublime; great birds, wonderful company and outstanding food, what more can a boy want? I would advise anyone to visit. Those wishing to do so can contact the Spanish Tourist Office for more details using the link below. Thank you all involved in organizing what was, in truth, the greatest birding trip I’ve had the pleasure to embark on to date.

Wish to visit Extremadura? Contact the Spanish Tourist Office and visitspain.info

Trip Report: Extremadura (Parte 1)

So, I’m back and what an amazing few days! Before I get to the all important birding, I would just like to say a huge thank you to everyone involved with the recent FIO2016 press-trip to Extremadura. The whole ordeal was nothing short of eye-opening and I am incredibly grateful to Vanesa Palacios and Yarida Chaparro for hosting, what was in truth, a truly outstanding trip. Likewise our guides, Marc Galvez (@Onaga_Ambiental) and Godfried Schreur were fantastic, full of intriguing facts and extremely talented – truly I do not think I have ever met anyone so overtly knowledgeable! It really was an real honour to be included on this venture, if a little dumbfounding. Watching wildlife alongside the likes of Sheena Harvey and Matt Merrit, the editors of BBC Wildlife Magazine and Bird Watching Magazine respectively, plus a host of tour operators from as far away as Hong Kong and the USA left me a more than a little starstruck. All in all, I am very grateful for the opportunity and hope to visit Extremadura again in the future (If I do not decide to move their permanently first). Now however, birds..


Pictured: Griffon Vulture, Egyptian Vulture, Cinereous Vulture – Monfragüe

Where better to start than with Monfragüe National Park, our first port of call and the jewel in the crown of Extremadura. Monfragüe, the only national park in Extremadura far surpassed expectations. Comprising picturesque mountain ranges, large expanses of dehesa bursting with Holm Oak and Cork and, of course, the Tajo river; the park truly is a fantastic location – holding some of the areas most iconic species and more than enough to keep any birder enthralled for hours.

Heading first to the Castle of Monfragüe, a short walk up the wooded slopes provided our first chance for some real Spanish birding. Here the abundant trees teamed with FirecrestChaffinch and Serin while Short-Toed Treecreeper was heard and a delightful pair of Red-Billed Chough circled overhead. Heading up towards the castle and stopping occasionally to admire certain botanical elements yet more species became apparent. First, a Jay briefly broke cover before a passing Hawfinch diverted our attention; next came Iberian Green WoodpeckerCrag Martin and Black Redstart followed quickly by my first “lifer” of the trip, a wonderful pair of Rock Bunting feeding by the track. Only after admiring these (and picking up Blackcap and a calling Red-Legged Partridge) did we reach the castle itself where we were able to enjoy magical panoramic views of our surroundings. As if the views were not enough, the site also abounded with Griffon Vultures, more and more lifting from their cliff-top perches as the morning went on. These showed marvelously here, some 150 noted throughout the morning and some giving impeccable views as they flew mere meters overhead. As if it could not get any better, soon a number of Cinereous Vultures joined the fray, riding the thermals overhead alongside a a scattering of Egyptian Vultures. All together, the three species present, provided one of the most memorizing spectacles I have ever had the pleasure to behold. Something only enhanced by a distant Black Stork (too distant to tick), the constant calling of the nearby Chough’s and the addition of Red-Rumped Swallow to our ever growing list. What a way to begin the trip!

Pictured: Black Stork & Griffon Vultures – Salto Del Gitano

Next on the agenda was a visit to another area of the national park, the Salto del Gitano where we were treated to exceptional views of six Black Stork – another lifer for this relative novice! Here Griffon, Black and Egyptian Vultures delighted once more and a distant Sparrowhawk sailed on the horizon. From the viewpoint Marc also drew our attention to a Peregrine nest while the vegetated margins of the reservoir provided a hub of passerine activity. Serin, Goldfinch and Sardinian Warber proved abundant here, as did Crag Martin, while three Red-Rumped Swallow gave good views and both White Wagtail and Great Cormorant were new for the trip. More interesting still was the presence of two more Rock Bunting while a utterly superb Blue Rock Thrush sung from a nearby ledge and a distant Black Wheatear was expertly scoped by our guide. Three more “lifers” in the bag and smiles all around, when I return to Extremadura I will certainly return here for longer and would advise anyone visiting the area to do the same.

Following our success at the Salto del Gitano, our next port of call was the Extremadura Birdwatching Fair which, as expected, proved to be a fantastic affair. Soaking up the atmosphere for quite some time, I found it quite difficult to drag myself away from the tantalising tour marquees but when I did, I opted to set off into the dehesa for a few hours solo birding – something which proved incredibly rewarding, if also a little frustrating – the lack of a guide making identifying larks somewhat difficult. First came nice views of another lifer, a small flock of Azure-Winged Magpie followed promptly by both Cirl Bunting and another cracking Blue Rock Thrush, this time on top of a dilapidated barn. Corn Bunting were everywhere here (as they were in all of Extremdura), their “jangling key” calls a welcome change to the norm while a flock of some c200 House Martin gathered around a small puddle and a pair of Black Redstart skipped around the footpath. The male bird proving particularly obliging. Serin were, of course, rather numerous also though two Siskin came as somewhat of a surprise before being scared off by an Iberian Grey Shrike. Moving on, yet more time was spend scrutinizing the sites lark species, a venture that yielded both Crested Lark and Thekla Lark – both of which were new birds for me.  Heading back to the rendezvous, a Hoopoe briefly crossed my path and an array of more familiar species were added, among these; GreenfinchDunnock and a good number of Barn Swallow. These however were soon forgotten as I was commandeered for an interview by a local TV crew and rather awkwardly set about singing the praises of Extremadura in front of a rather large camera. Another first!

On a side note – there is of course, a lot more to Extremadura than just birds and my all too breif solo jaunt at the fair provided an opportunity to scrutinize the sites invertebrates in a little more detail. Of these, it was the plentiful butterflies that proved most interesting with two new species seen including Spanish Festoon and Large Tortoiseshell alongside a healthy array of Clouded YellowBrimstoneBath WhitePainted Lady and Red Admiral. These, alongside an intriguing Bee-Fly and a pair of Red Deer helped fill the quieter spells of the walk rather nicely. Who knows what I could have unearthed with a little more time. Another incentive to return at a later date? I think so, though, as ever, birds will always take precedence.

Pictured: Thekla Lark, Siskin, Serin and Black Redstart – Monfragüe

Well, that is part one of my Extremadura trip-report over and done with. Believe it or not, all of that listed above took place during the first full day of the trip! I figured it would be best to split these posts up a little bit (if only to include all of my pictures), stay tuned for part two in the next few days.

Wish to visit Extremadura? Contact the Spanish Tourist Office and visit spain.info