James Common

Jesmond Dene, nestled just two miles northeast of Newcastle city centre, is a true gem. With the River Ouse Burn at its heart, this picturesque area has witnessed remarkable transformations over the centuries. What began as a stretch of natural woodland evolved into an industrial hub, dotted with mills, before transitioning into a Victorian pleasure ground. Today, it stands as a cherished public park. While the dene’s history is rich and multifaceted—a story explored in depth elsewhere—it is its stint as a private estate that intrigues this curious botanist most of all.

Strolling through the overgrown dene today, one can’t help but marvel at the sheer diversity of plant life thriving here. Native woodland species, exotic ornamentals, garden escapes, and beloved Victorian classics all grow in abundance and truth be told, it is quite the puzzle to unravel how and when many of these fascinating botanicals arrived. In this post, we’ll attempt to do just that—exploring some of Jesmond Dene’s hidden botanical treasures and, at times speculatively, attempting to trace their origins. Let’s dive in…

Lord Armstrong’s Private Garden

While best known for his renowned residence at Cragside, Sir William George Armstrong (1810–1900) also left an indelible mark on Newcastle through his landscaping and development of Jesmond Dene. Born in Shieldfield, Newcastle, and originally trained as a solicitor, Armstrong married Margaret Ramshaw (1807–1893) of Bishop Auckland, County Durham, in 1835. That same year, the couple built their home, Jesmond Dean, on a small portion of land that would later become part of the larger dene.

Over the following decades, particularly in the 1850s, Armstrong and his wife purchased large tracts of neighbouring land, gradually transforming the dene into a meticulously landscaped parkland. Armstrong’s alterations were ambitious and wide-ranging. Fascinated by water, he reshaped the River Ouse Burn by adding waterfalls, islands, and bridges, many of which remain iconic features of the area today. He also introduced a network of footpaths, still enjoyed by modern day walkers.

Equally significant, though perhaps less obvious, was his transformation of the dene’s flora. Armstrong imported plants from across the globe, enriching the landscape with exotic species and curious varieties, in doing so, greatly altering the park’s character.

Armstrong’s passion for plants was well-documented, and, in keeping with the times, many of the species he introduced to his ‘woodland garden’ reflected the trends of Victorian landscaping. Rhododendrons (Rhododendron ponticum) were a particularly popular choice, as was Aucuba (Aucuba japonica), along with an array of exotic trees. Some of these, including impressive specimens of Wellingtonia (Sequoiadendron giganteum) and Japanese Red Cedar (Cryptomeria japonica), still stand tall today. Look closer, and you’ll also find several unusual oaks, such as the Red Oak (Quercus rubra) and Lebanon Oak (Quercus libani). However, while these relics are striking, they are not the focus of this post.

In 1883, Lord Armstrong gifted the main area of Jesmond Dene to the Corporation of Newcastle upon Tyne for the benefit of its citizens. The following year, in 1884, the park was officially opened by the Prince and Princess of Wales. Since then, little has changed. Jesmond Dene remains well-used by locals but, aside from essential maintenance and a few successive introductions of equally unusual plants, it has been largely untended for over a century, allowing nature to reclaim much of the space – the very reason it is so difficult to tell new introductions from older ones!

Today, while still officially recognisd as a park, Jesmond Dene resembles more of a semi-natural urban woodland. It supports many species typical of ancient semi-natural woodlands, such as Wood Anemone (Anemone nemorosa) and Ramsons (Allium ursinum) and its canopy is dominated by native trees, including English Oak (Quercus robur), Wych Elm (Ulmus glabra) and Ash (Fraxinus excelsior). This façade of naturalness is so extensive that parts of the dene appear entirely wild. Yet, while many of the landscaped features remain— complete with their exotic introductions —much of Lord Armstrong’s original planting seems to have been lost to time. Or has it?

Over recent years, while exploring Jesmond Dene, I have stumbled across several remnants of its past life as a naturalistic garden — often in the most unexpected places. While some species have undoubtedly been lost, much still remains for those who know where to look. Though not strictly “wild” (although one could argue that any species persisting or spreading for over a century has earned that distinction), these exotic plants add an intriguing layer of interest to what is already the crown jewel of Newcastle’s green spaces.

In what will likely become a rather lengthy blog, I wanted to highlight some of these botanical relics…

The Exotic Plants of Jesmond Dene

Before going any further, please do take a look at this superb account published account on the History of Jesmond Dene. With mention of many of the plants introduced during Victorian times, this will form the basis for several of today’s assumptions.

Shrubs in Jesmond Dene

Perhaps the most obvious aspect of Armstrong’s legacy is the assortment of exotic trees scattered throughout Jesmond Dene and the neighbouring Armstrong Park. While undeniably fascinating, these trees are rather conspicuous and not the focus of this blog (though I have written about some of them previously here).

Far less prominent are the shrubs introduced as understory plants and hedging. Several exotic species, such as Rhododendron (Rhododendron ponticum), Snowberry (Symphoricarpos albus), and Himalayan Honeysuckle (Leycesteria formosa), are widespread — so much so that it’s nearly impossible to miss them. Others, like Aucuba (Aucuba japonica), which forms large stands around Pet’s Corner and in Armstrong Park, and both Wilson’s Honeysuckle (Lonicera nitida) and Box-leaved Honeysuckle (Lonicera pileata), are easier to spot if you know where to look.

Even more intriguing are those shrubs that have blended seamlessly with the naturally occurring vegetation. Take the Berberis family for example — a spiny set of shrubs typically originating from Asia or South America. In a summary of plants recorded in Jesmond Dene in 1894, only two species are mentioned: Oregon-grape (Berberis aquifolium) and Darwin’s Barberry (Berberis darwinii), the latter, of course, named in honour of Charles Darwin.

While the original plantings of Oregon-grape appear to have disappeared, the species is still very much present in the Dene today and seedlings can readily be found in several parts. Whether these stem from Armstrong’s introductions, or more recent plantings in the 1980’s and 90’s remains to be seen. Darwin’s Barberry persists in several locations too, most notably near Castle Farm Road. Beyond these, other Berberis species seem to have quietly flown under the radar. For instance, several stands of the attractive Chinese Barberry (Berberis julianae) can be found, especially near the entrance to Armstrong Park, while Common Barberry (Berberis vulgaris) has been noted in the upper reaches of the dene. The origins of both are hazy at best.

More recently, specimens of Gagnepain’s Barberry (Berberis gagnepainii) were observed near the quarry (rail.hired.silks) where one can also find some nice examples of Warty Barberry (Berberis verruculosa), both plants absent from early records. Both of these seem to be later introductions by park custodians. The same can also be said for the fragrant Christmas Box (Sarcococca confusa) growing nearby – not a Berberis but a nice plant nonetheless.

Other groups of plants mentioned in early accounts of Jesmond Dene include Hawthorns and Cotoneasters. Starting with the Hawthorns, the 1894 plant list references Crataegus oxycantha — a now obsolete name that broadly encompassed both Common Hawthorn (Crataegus monogyna) and Midland Hawthorn (Crataegus laevigata). While plenty of native Common Hawthorn thrives throughout the dene, visitors can still find examples of Midland Hawthorn hidden in plain sight, particularly in the grotto and along Red Walk. Though they appear quite similar to the untrained eye, these Midland Hawthorns were surely part of Armstrong’s original introductions.

But what about the Cotoneasters? Given their ability to spread independently, several species found in Jesmond Dene may have colonised the area more recently. Among these are Willow-leaved Cotoneaster (Cotoneaster salicifolius) and Himalayan Cotoneaster (Cotoneaster simonsii). Far more intriguing, however, is the presence of Purple-flowered Cotoneaster (Cotoneaster atropurpureus), observed growing within the riverside masonry along Red Walk. This species has not been recorded elsewhere in the region, and given its apparent age, it may well originate from original plantings in the dene.

Jesmond Dene is home to many other exotic shrubs, nestled discreetly within the landscape. Among the more striking species are Yellow Azalea (Rhododendron luteum), hidden in the thickets west of Paddy Freeman’s Park (punchy.wins.usage), and Wrinkled Viburnum (Viburnum rhytidophyllum), found nearby at stuck.lamp.soak. The former is mentioned in early accounts, while older examples of the latter must surely stem from Armstrong’s day. Recent records also suggest the presence of the related Laurustinus (Viburnum tinus), though, alas, I have yet to locate it myself.

Three other shrubs I have observed, however, are Juneberry (Amelanchier spp.), Asian Firethorn (Pyracantha rogersiana) and Shallon (Gaultheria shallon). Interestingly, the latter has become a problematic invasive species at Armstrong’s other residence at Cragside. In Jesmond Dene, you can find Shallon uphill from solo.shack.feels. Along Red Walk, you may also spot examples of Weigela (Weigela florida), Mock Orange (Philadelphus coronarius), and Rose-of-Sharon (Hypericum calycinum), all of which have presumably stood the test of time. All three are mentioned in that historic account of the denes flora.

Whilst not strictly a shrub (though large than most) also worth a look on your next walk along the Ouse Burn are the large stands of bamboo. The most impressive sit in Armstrong Park and after much mind-changing, I think these could be Arrow Bamboo (Pseudosasa japonica). This would fit with the initial planting plan.

Three final species worth mentioning are all Rubus species, or brambles. First, across the Ouse Burn from Pet’s Corner, a spring visit may reward visitors with the striking pink blooms of Salmonberry (Rubus spectabilis), a North American species that is now happily naturalising at colleague.darker.pines, or thereabouts. This was a popular plant in Victorian times and in the North East, appears most frequently in the grounds of older stately homes.

At several points in the dene, you can also spot sprawling patches of Chinese Bramble (Rubus tricolor), a species long favored in landscaping. Given Armstrong’s fondness for oriental plants, this may date back to Victorian times. Finally, at mercy.lend.spray, you will find a long-neglected garden completely overtaken by White-stemmed Bramble (Rubus cockburnianus), a particularly attractive species endemic to China. Given the vast area it occupies, it’s clear that this bramble has been established for quite some time but for how long exactly, I am unsure.

Groundcover

Of course, when planting a whole host of trees and shrubs, you need something pretty to sit under them. The Armstrong’s planted many such things including several Gentians, Heaths and orchids now lost to time. That said, if anyone stumbles across a Lady’s-slipper Orchid, please let me know – supposedly these too were introduced on mass!

What remains today of Armstrong’s planted groundcover largely consists of tenacious, hardy species. Throughout the dene, you’ll encounter both Greater Periwinkle (Vinca major) and Lesser Periwinkle (Vinca minor) in various areas, as well as Atlantic Ivy (Hedera hibernica) and Persian Ivy (Hedera colchica) adorning the woodland floor in several spots. It’s perhaps unsurprising that these species have persisted, but look closer, and you’ll also find surprises.

One such surprise is a sprawling colony of Abraham-Isaac-Jacob (Trachystemon orientalis) at slot.puff.stale. This unusual plant, native to Bulgaria and surrounding regions, is well-established in the dene and must surely have been introduced as a botanical curiosity. It is no longer common in cultivation today and would be a very odd choice indeed for modern park keepers given its tendency to overtake neighbouring areas.

Similarly, while walking along Red Walk, it’s possible to see several Asiatic plants growing amid tangles of brambles and other native weeds. Rodgersia (Rodgersia podophylla) is present here, as is Japanese Astilbe (Astilbe japonica), while in some areas, particularly on some of the higher more remote slopes, stands of Carpet-box (Pachysandra terminalis) can also be observed. The isolation of these sporadic plants, far from tended beds, suggests that they too could have been present here for quite some time. Conversations with park custodians seem to support this idea though it is difficult to know for certain given the successive plantings undertaken over the years.

The above curiosities are not the only ones worth mentioning. By the stepping stones at face.edgy.sticky, a glance at the sodden, moss-covered banks of the Ouse Burn should reveal another fascinating plant: Kidney Saxifrage (Saxifraga hirsuta). This perennial thrives in high humidity and is typically found in damp, shaded environments such as woods, ravines, and north-facing cliffs. It was likely introduced as a rockery plant and has since established itself in several areas of the dene, alongside another similar species, Londonpride (Saxifraga × urbium). Interestingly, an intermediate form of the two species also exists in the dene and may represent a hybrid—a subject worth investigating in the future.

Another species present in the dene, Fringecups (Tellima grandiflora), would also fit with this style of Victorian planting but is now so well naturalised in parts of our region that tracing its origin becomes incredibly challenging.

Last, but by no means least, Jesmond Dene’s ferns deserve mention. The dene hosts several native species, including Hard Fern (Blechnum spicant) and Lady-fern (Athyrium filix-femina), but it also features introduced varieties. At the site of an old fernery, presumably created by the Armstrong’s, nature has reclaimed much of the area, yet the wider area still holds intriguing plants like Copper Shield-fern (Dryopteris erythrosora). Whether this species is an descendant of original plantings or of something planted more recently is impossible to assess. It is a pretty one though and I’d like to think it may have stood the test of time.

Elsewhere in the dene, you’ll notice many examples of Soft Shield-fern (Polystichum setiferum). While this species is native to southern parts of the UK, in the North it generally appears as an introduced plant. Interestingly, it is one of the few ferns specifically mentioned in Armstrong’s original planting plans. Over the years, it has gone on to colonise many parts of the dene.

Spring Bulbs

Another rather charming group of plants worth mentioning are the spring bulbs, valued today just as they were in Victorian times for their colorful early-season displays. While records are sparse regarding exactly what was introduced to the dene during Armstrong’s time, early accounts do mention “squills, crocuses, and similar plants,” which were added for their visual appeal. Some of these plantings still persist today.

At cycle.erase.calm, or nearby, a stroll later in the year should reveal some attractive stands of Autumn Crocus (Colchicum autumnale), while a springtime visit will uncover patches of Green Snowdrop (Galanthus woronowii) now well at home in the woodland. In various parts of the dene, Spring Crocus (Crocus vernus) and Early Crocus (Crocus tommasinianus) can also be found. The most impressive colony of the latter grows near the entrance to Armstrong Park, where the species appears to have become well-established.

Scattered patches of Common Snowdrop (Galanthus nivalis) and Greater Snowdrop (Galanthus elwesii) too may also trace their origins to the dene’s Victorian plantings but we cannot know for sure.

The squills mentioned in those early accounts have all but disappeared, with one notable exception: a small population of Siberian Squill (Scilla siberica) in Armstrong Park. Its vivid blue flowers make for a striking and unusual sight amidst the site’s native woodland flora. Records from 2003 also note the presence of this species in the northern part of the dene.

Two more striking species are also worth highlighting. At video.stole.counts, visitors can find a small population of Dog’s-tooth Violet (Erythronium dens-canis). First recorded here in 2004 (although known about for much longer), its origins remain unclear, though it could be remnant of the park’s early tenure as a garden. Not far away, at being.many.horns, scattered examples of Blue Anemone (Anemone blanda) grow alongside our native Wood Anemone (Anemone nemorosa). The positioning of both species suggests they are not recent additions but rather remnants of historical plantings, perhaps in Armstrong’s day, perhaps more recently.

And there we have it—a tour of Jesmond Dene’s exotic plant life. In truth, aside from the rhododendrons, laurels, yews, and bamboos, it is difficult to say with certainty whether any of the fascinating exotics present in the dene can definitively be traced back to Lord Armstrong. I’d have loved to offer a more conclusive answer, but then again, who doesn’t enjoy a good mystery?

One thing is certain, however: Jesmond Dene is entirely unique on a local level. It is part woodland, showcasing countless examples of our native flora, and part garden, adorned with an array of exotic plants. This rare blend makes it an endlessly intriguing place to explore, and I sincerely hope it continues to be maintained in this spirit for generations to come.

Finally, it’s worth noting that new discoveries are still being made in the dene—or, at the very least, old treasures are being rediscovered. So don’t be surprised if, on your next walk, you stumble across something altogether unexpected, quietly tucked away in a thicket.