Walks Through the Flora of Newcastle – Big Waters & Brenkley

Inspired by ongoing efforts to record the urban flora of Newcastle and North Tyneside, I wanted to make some of what has been discovered so far accessible to those interested in exploring the city for themselves. Cue a new series!

These blogs will explore some of the best botanical walks the conurbation has to offer – perfect for planning your next outing in the urban jungle. Here, we’ll explore the former mining sites of Big Waters and Brenkley Colliery, with a brief detour to Seaton Burn, but first a huge thanks to Chris Barlow for the photography needed to illustrate this post – I must learn to take better photos!

A Special Site of Scientific Interest (SSSI) managed jointly by Northumberland Wildlife Trust (NWT) and Urban Green Newcastle, Big Waters is home to the largest subsistence pond in region, formed over collapsed mine workings from the 1920s. With plenty of open water, reedbed, neutral grassland and wet woodland, it is a most interesting place to visit. That said, it is the Eastern side managed by Urban Green Newcastle that is most interesting. You’ll start there, though the NWT side is of note for its rich sedge community which among other things includes White Sedge (Carex canescens), Common Yellow-sedge (Carex demissa) and Oval Sedge (Carex leporina). You will avoid hopping fences, won’t you?

Your walk will begin in the carpark at seeing.helpfully.meanders. From here, take the less-trodden path into the wood for a brief pitstop at the boardwalk at instincts.honestly.offices. Here, the small pond to either side holds Rigid Hornwort (Ceratophyllum demersum) and White Water-lily (Nymphaea alba) alongside more common wetland fare in Purple-loosestrife (Lythrum salicaria) and Broad-leaved Pondweed (Potamogeton natans). Better yet, this area is one of the few places in the conurbation where you can enjoy Greater Duckweed (Spirodela polyrhiza) – a rather rare plant in North East England, if the maps are to be believed.

Next, head up a small flight of rickety stems and follow the trail through the small wood until you emerge at starters.concerned.lift. At this point, follow the lakeshore taking care to look out any unusual aquatic plants washed closer to shore. Fennel Pondweed (Stuckenia pectinata) is particularly common, as is Canadian Waterweed (Elodea canadensis) but you may also encounter Horned Pondweed (Zannichellia palustris) and Curled Pondweed (Potamogeton crispus). The banks here can be interesting too with plentiful Marsh Woundwort (Stachys palustris), Teasel (Dipsacus fullonum), Perforate St. John’s-wort (Hypericum perforatum) and other common plants. If you look closer at the Hypericum, you may well encounter Des Etang’s St. John’s-wort (Hypericum x desetangsii) also, though it’s other parent, Imperforate St. John’s-wort (Hypericum maculatum) is strangely lacking if my experience is anything to go by.

Continuing on this route, before long, you’ll enter a new monad and should continue, over a small bridge, into an area of grassland beginning at products.most.flick. By the burn, be sure to check the stepping stones for more Greater Duckweed, often forming mixed-species mats with its common cousin, Common Duckweed (Lemna minor), and some infrequent marginals in Amphibious Bistort (Persicaria amphibia), Water-plantain (Alisma plantago-aquatica) and Clustered Dock (Rumex conglomeratus). These species are common across Big Waters but this is as good a place as any to spot them.

The grasslands at Big Waters are rather diverse and home to a rich suite of species including Yellow Oat-grass (Trisetum flavescens), Lesser Stitchwort (Stellaria graminea), Zigzag Clover (Trifolium medium), Agrimony (Agrimonia eupatoria), Northern Marsh-orchid (Dactylorhiza purpurella) and Common Spotted-orchid (Dactylorhiza fuchsii). Explore these, but be sure to return to the burnside path for an eclectic mix of naturalised garden escapes.

How many of these species came to exist here is a bit of a mystery but depending on the timing of your visit, around butlers.equity.professes you can observe a queer mix of Purple Cranes-bill (Geranium x magnificum), Druce’s Crane’s-bill (Geranium x oxonianum), Dotted Loosestrife (Lysimachia punctata) and Hybrid Barrenwort (Epimedium x versicolor). If you should notice a rather imposing tussock of grass, this is likely to be Golden Oats (Celtica gigantea) which was first recorded from the site in 2024 by local naturalist, Chris Barlow. Chris has since gone on to find Yellow Oxeye (Buphthalmum speciosum) in the same area so what exactly is happening here is anyone’s guess! Big Waters gardening club?

Continue beside the Hartley Burn until you reach the motorway, noting the impressive Traveller’s-joy (Clematis vitalba) at rust.informer.slab. From this point, you’ll loop back, walking the opposite site of the burn as you head back towards the lake. Along the way, lookout for Grey Alder (Alnus incana), Italian Alder (Alnus cordata) and other commonplace additions to former coalfields. When you reach the lake, it is worth investigating the eroded bank at struts.factory.grips where visitors commonly feed the resident waterfowl. Sightings here have included commonplace plants such as Bread Wheat (Triticum aestivum) but also relative scarcities such as Cockspur (Echinochloa crus-galli). From here, you’ll want to follow the path North, through a small wood, to fists.rifled.wrist, where you will reach a bridleway from which you will travel West to the site of the former Brenkley Colliery. A rather inaccessible but diverse site that can be accessed, somewhat naughtily, via some arable fields at sideboard.explored.revealing.

From this point, head North along the margins of the sprawling wheat field, ensuring you hug the margins so not to trample the farmers crops. Doing so, you will have the opportunity to observe many crop weeds including commonplace plants like Scarlet Pimpernel (Lysimachia arvensis) and Scentless Mayweed (Tripleurospermum inodorum) but several scarcities too. In this field, and in the broader area, a little work can reveal Great Brome (Anisantha diandra), Black-grass (Alopecurus myosuroides) and Marsh Cudweed (Gnaphalium uliginosum), all of which are rather rare in Greater Newcastle. When you reach powerful.trudges.tedious, you have reached the colliery and short of a hurdle through the hedge, the next leg of your botanical voyage can begin.

Brenkley Colliery is an interesting if somewhat neglected site. In parts, the meadows here are acidic in nature dominated by Betony (Betonica officinalis), Tormentil (Potentilla erecta), Sneezewort (Achillea ptarmica), Common Sedge (Carex nigra) and Devil’s-bit Scabious (Succisa pratensis). In other parts, you will find copious Fairy Flax (Linum catharticum) alongside Common Spotted Orchid, Lady’s-bedstraw (Galium verum) and tracts of Yellow Oat-grass; all of which, together, hint at more calcareous conditions. Uncommon plants here include Great Burnet (Sanguisorba officinalis), Des Etangs’ St. John’s-wort and best of all, Newcastle’s only known example of Autumn Gentian (Gentianella amarella) – a surprising find during recent surveys.

Brenkley is degrading fast it would seem, largely on account of encroaching scrub. Inaction means that this locally unique site may be lost in due course so perhaps it is best to enjoy it while you can. Or perhaps it will be protected. Who knows?

At this stage, you may wish to curtail your journey, heading back the way you came to Big Waters and onwards to home. However, if you’re not yet finished, you could opt for a walk East along the old colliery road towards Seaton Burn and Little Waters. Doing so will reward you with copious amounts of Blue Water-Speedwell (Veronica anagallis-aquatica) in a path side ditch at detective.suitably.canyons, while continuing to the bridge in Seaton Burn itself will yield what may well be Newcastle/North Tynside’s most diverse aquatic plant community. At waltzed.mailboxes.stream look out for the county’s only known population of Lesser Water-Parsnip (Berula erecta), a Rare Plant Register species, and other uncommon plants such as Curled Pondweed and Horned Pondweed. A rather chunky water-starwort here may well turn out to be Blunt-fruited Water-starwort (Callitriche obtusangula) but needs further investigation. Water-violet (Hottonia palustris) also grows in this square but alas, I can’t reveal everything in posts such as this can I?