Teesdale Archives - James Common

The Tees to High Force

Fresh from our recent visit to Falcon Clints, last week, I had the pleasure of returning to Upper Teesdale – this time as part of the Botanist’s Year course I’m leading for the Natural History Society of Northumbria. This walk was a little less strenuous than our previous outing and took us from Bowlees, past Low Force, and on to the spectacular High Force waterfall. Along the way, we encountered a variety of fascinating plants and as ever, this blog will list just a few of the highlights.

One of the things I adore most about Teesdale is the abundance of Globeflower Trollius europaeus. There is just something about these plump, yellow, spherical blooms that makes me feel inextricably happy. Perhaps that joy comes from the plant’s tendency to grow in particularly special places, often in rugged upland areas?

Closely associated with limestone, Globeflower favours damp, open habitats along rivers and on mountain slopes. Along the Tees, it is remarkably abundant, and almost as soon as we reached Low Force, we were treated to a fine display.

Having spent more than enough time admiring the Trollius, we soon set off along the banks of the Tees. In these early stages of the walk, we encountered several other interesting plants, including Rock Whitebeam Sorbus rupicola and Dark-leaved Willow Salix myrsinifolia, two of the area’s more notable trees. We also came across several more commonplace species including Bitter-vetch Lathyrus linifolius and Wood Crane’s-bill Geranium sylvaticum.

Far more striking during these early stages were the orchids, which, thanks to some long-overdue rain, were now flourishing. Early-purple Orchids Orchis mascula are usually plentiful along the riverbanks here, but most (aside from the fine specimen below) were now past their best. In their place, the summer species were beginning to take over, including a large population of Heath Spotted-orchid Dactylorhiza maculata and several smaller populations of Northern Marsh-orchid Dactylorhiza purpurella.

We also observed signs of hybridisation between the latter two species, which had produced several pale-pink, intermediate specimens. These may well turn out to be the hybrid Dactylorhiza × formosa, though I’m not entirely certain. Orchids are a rather difficult bunch…

Orchids aside, the banks of the Tees are an excellent place to spot all manner of colourful and interesting plants, including several of the area’s specialities. On our way to the midpoint at Holwick Bridge, we were pleased to encounter Common Butterwort Pinguicula vulgaris, Alpine Bistort Bistorta vivipara, and a handful of Bird’s-eye Primrose Primula farinosa that had not yet gone over.

Arguably more interesting during this leg of the trip were several superb examples of Shrubby Cinquefoil Dasiphora fruticosa. A species of damp rock ledges and riverbanks subject to periodic flooding, this is an incredibly rare native plant whose distribution maps are distorted by escapes from cultivation. In fact, it is more commonly encountered as a garden escapee – often from supermarket car parks – but in the wild, it occurs in Teesdale and just a select few other locations. With its vibrant yellow flowers, it is quite the attractive plant.

As we neared Holwick Bridge, several more noteworthy plants caught our attention. First came a lovely brace of Common Twayblade Neottia ovata – not the most eye-catching of orchids, I admit – and later, an exciting duo of horsetails. Wood Horsetail Equisetum sylvaticum was easy to spot thanks to its distinctive, feathery branches. The second, Shady Horsetail Equisetum pratense, took a bit more effort to identify.

Once you get your eye in, it has a fairly distinctive appearance, with its branches swept to one side in a somewhat Trump-esque fashion. It is an uncommon plant in England, with the majority of the national population found in Scotland.

In the near area, we also encountered a flowering patch of Common Bistort Bistorta officinalis.

Beyond the bridge and onwards towards High Force, the flora began to shift, with lush riverside vegetation gradually giving way to Juniper Juniperus communis scrub. It was disheartening to see that many of the junipers were blighted by disease – presumably the much-maligned Phytophthora austrocedri. Still, despite this, we were pleased to spot some cheerful Mountain Pansies Viola lutea, and the scenic views were certainly not to be scoffed at.

The surroundings of High Force itself proved interesting, particularly due to the variety of ferns present. While we didn’t manage to find the hoped-for Mountain Male-fern Dryopteris oreades, we did come across some fine examples of Narrow Male-fern Dryopteris cambrensis. Better still was Lemon-scented Fern Oreopteris limbosperma, with its distinctive tapering fronds and subtle citrus aroma.

We also found some attractive Beech Fern Phegopteris connectilis, and a brief look at the insect life proved rewarding. A fleeting glimpse of a Broken-belted Bumblebee Bombus soroeensis – sadly too quick for a photo – was followed by several rather more obliging Gypsy Cuckoo Bumblebees Bombus bohemicus.

Gypsy Cuckoo Bumblebee *Bombus bohemicus*

After saying our goodbyes to the group, Matt and I decided to make the most of the day by setting out in search of yet more ferns (by this stage, you may be noticing a bit of a trend this year). High on our agenda was an abandoned quarry on the opposite bank of the Tees, not far from the paid entrance to High Force.

Following in the footsteps of John Durkin, who recorded several interesting species here in 2023, we set about exploring the quarry walls – and were rewarded with some noteworthy finds.

Among the more common ferns were Wall-rue Asplenium ruta-muraria and Maidenhair Spleenwort Asplenium trichomanes subsp. quadrivalens. More exciting, at least for this budding pteridologist, were Rustyback Asplenium ceterach and Delicate Maidenhair Spleenwort Asplenium trichomanes subsp. trichomanes – two species I see far too infrequently for my liking.

Among the larger ferns, one in particular caught my eye due to its noticeably extended dark blotches at the junction of the costa and the rachis. My hunch was that this might be a new species for us – Alpine Male-fern Dryopteris lacunosa – however, as I wasn’t yet fully familiar with the species, we chose to leave it unidentified for the time being.

Happily, once photos were shared with John Durkin, he appeared to confirm my suspicion. We’ll need to check in again to be sure, but this could well represent the first record of D. lacunosa for Upper Teesdale – how exciting, and what a fitting note on which to end this little blog.

For those interested, I share further musings on Dryopteris lacunosa [here].

An expedition to Falcon Clints

Upper Teesdale is a truly remarkable place, packed with rare and wonderful arctic-alpine plants. Each year, I try to visit at least once and each time manage to discover something new and exciting to make the trip worthwhile. Last week, my annual visit came around again and together with NHSN’s Urban Naturalist, Ellie, I set off in search of a group of species I’d yet to properly explore in this part of the world – ferns!

Of course, before the fern hunting could begin, we had to reach Falcon Clints, a truly stunning gorge nestled below the confluence of Maizebeck and the River Tees. To get there, we first had to cross Cow Green with all its botanical riches (such a chore, I know!). As expected, this leg of the trip was a delight with hundreds of Mountain Pansies Viola lutea now in full bloom. As you can see, these cheerful little plants come in a brilliant range of colours.

Despite the abundance of pansies, one thing that struck us immediately was the near-total absence of Spring Gentians Gentiana verna. They had all gone over, perhaps hastened by the warm weather. Nevermind; what we did find during this stage of the walk more than made up for it. In damper spots, the Bird’s-eye Primroses Primula farinosa were out in force Variegated Horsetail was a particularly nice find in the flushes. Hardly the most inspiring plant, I confess, but I’ve always had a soft spot for it.

Variegated Horsetail *Equisetum variegatum*

Further down the trail, about halfway to Cauldron Snout, more notable species were found. Mountain Everlasting Antennaria dioica was a highlight, and Sea Plantain Plantago maritima was in flower. In the drier, more exposed areas of sugar limestone, we also came across Spring Sandwort Sabulina verna, and grassy patches offered Lesser Clubmoss Selaginella selaginoides, Blue Moor-grass Sesleria caerulea, and countless sedges which we opted to overlook this time.

The initial descent down Cauldron Snout is truly beautiful and well worth a pause, if you’re ever passing. Falcon Clints is equally, if not more, breath-taking with its steep dolerite cliffs fringed by dramatic scree slopes. It’s worth taking a moment to appreciate the gradual shift in vegetation as you scan down the cliff face: moorland heather giving way to stunted trees and herbs, and eventually, to ferns. We even spotted a few Ring Ouzel – always nice to see.

The list of ferns found at Falcon Clints is impressive – if a little daunting – with species ranging from common woodland fare to truly rare plants found pretty much nowhere else in England. Some of the more familiar species we encountered early on included Lady-fern Athyrium filix-femina, Bracken Pteridium aquilinum, Narrow Male-fern Dryopteris cambrensis, Broad Buckler-fern Dryopteris dilatata and Hard-fern Blechnum spicant, but these quickly faded into the background as we began to explore the scree.

The first exciting discovery was the curious-looking Parsley Fern Cryptogramma crispa, a calcifuge pioneer often found on exposed rock and former mine waste. It is a rather lovely plant, as is the next species we came across – Beech Fern Phegopteris connectilis. Now that I think about it, this may be the first time I’ve seen this distinctive little fern outside of damp, humid woodland.

Arguably more exciting, at least for this novice pteridologist, was the presence of several stands of Mountain Male-fern Dryopteris oreades. Though similar in appearance to the ubiquitous Male-fern Dryopteris filix-mas that many of us see regularly, this species is far more particular about where it grows and favours upland slopes and boulder fields. It can be distinguished from its commoner relative by the underside of its fronds where the sori are confined to the lowest portion of the pinnule. If you spot distinctive clumps of ferns adorning a mountainside, it’s well worth taking a closer look.

As we meandered through the valley, it was hard not to be distracted by the trees. Though relatively sparse at Falcon Clints, the ones that do grow here are gnarled, twisted, and strikingly beautiful. Juniper Juniperus communis is easy to find, as are Aspen Populus tremula and Rowan Sorbus aucuparia. Perhaps more intriguing though are the birches and it is worth checking any with noticeably contorted trunks and branches for signs of the upland subspecies of Downy Birch, Betula pubescens subsp. tortuosa. We spotted one along the way though admittedly, we weren’t looking that hard.

While most of Falcon Clints is dry and exposed, there are pockets of deep shade — particularly beneath rocky overhangs. It was in these secluded spots that we searched for our next group of ferns, and before long we were rewarded with some healthy specimens of Green Spleenwort Asplenium viride, a species abundant in this part of the world but rather rare elsewhere. Growing alongside it were Brittle Bladder-fern Cystopteris fragilis and Maidenhair Spleenwort Asplenium trichomanes subsp. quadrivalens. The latter prompted a closer look just in case it turned out to be something rarer but alas, I think not. We also found a solitary Hard Shield-fern Polystichum aculeatum – a common species, yet the only one we encountered all day.

We paused for lunch and eventually decided to turn back roughly 1.5 miles into the valley, right at the point where the path disappears and you have to scramble over rocks to go any further (you’ll know it when you see it). During our break, we took the opportunity to explore a particularly diverse overhang that held more than a few interesting plants. Beneath some willows which we tentatively identified as Dark-leaved Willow Salix myrsinifolia, we found Bird’s-eye Primrose, Marsh Valerian Valeriana dioica, Butterwort Pinguicula vulgaris, and some fine examples of Northern Bedstraw Galium boreale, not yet in flower.

After that, all that remained was to head back the way we came, admittedly rather slowly so to spend as much time as possible in this incredible place. However, there were a few more discoveries to share…

At the start of this post, I mentioned that Falcon Clints is home to some incredibly rare and special ferns. One in particular stands out: Holly-fern Polystichum lonchitis.

This striking fern prefers well-drained, cool and moist conditions at the base of cliffs, typically in stabilised boulder scree. A poor competitor, it avoids densely vegetated areas and is considered vulnerable across much of its native range. It wasn’t a species I had seen before, so you can imagine my delight when, after scrambling up a particularly steep bank, we were rewarded with the specimen shown below. A real thrill, even if it did look a little weather-beaten.

I won’t share precise location details here, but the information is out there if you know where to look.

Spring Delights In Upper Teesdale

Upper Teesdale is one of the UK’s premier botanical hotspots and a place to which I return regularly having experienced the area for the first time in 2020. The Teesdale Assemblage, a delightful mix of rare arctic-alpine and Southern plants, is a thing of beauty and makes for some of the best botanising in Britain. Much to my delight, the past fortnight has presented two opportunities to visit Teesdale, with two visits to Widdybank Fell and Cow Green, stopping briefly at Falcon Clints, and another shorter outing to Low Force and the Tees banks. A condensed round-up of what we encounter follows.

Early May

Stopping by Cow Green in early May, Matt and I had hoped to get our annual fix of everyone’s favourite alpine – Spring Gentian (Gentiana verna). I am pleased to report that we succeeded with hundreds of vivid blue marvels blooming along the nature trail from Cow Green to the nearby dam. Little needs to be said about these remarkable little plants so instead, I’ll let the photos do the talking. They are startlingly pretty!

Gentians aside, Widdybank Fell felt rather bleak early in the month, the sward at first glance punctuated only by dots of blue and flashes of lilac courtesy of the many Common Dog-violets (Viola riviniana) to be seen across the site. The prolific Mountain Pansies (Viola lutea) that adorn the site later in the month had yet to get going, though we did find a handful in sheltered spots. More interesting, however, were the less obvious plants. Glancing over the grassland, the blooms of Blue Moor-grass (Sesleria caerulea) were easy to make out and around a flush, we were pleased to spot several examples of Variegated Horsetail (Equisetum variegatum) – a curious little equisetum that I have only ever encountered here and on Lindisfarne in Northumberland. Definitely a plant of nice places…

Here too, we also noted a smart Common Lizard (Zootoca vivipara) and after a bit of searching, came up trumps with Rare Spring Sedge (Carex ericetorum). Nearby, a large colony of Bird’s-eye Primrose (Primula farinosa) provided a welcome dash of colour against the greys and greens of the fell. A special plant indeed.

Having had our fill of gentians and windswept moorland, we soon opted to head somewhere different. Deciding on a trip to Bowlees (via some rather nice scones) we soon set off for a walk up the Tees between Low Force and High Force. I am pleased we did as there was much to enjoy along the riverbanks. At Low Force itself, Early-purple Orchids (Orchis mascula) were in full bloom and the woodlands looked fantastic adorned with Bluebell (Hyacinthoides non-scripta) and other typical species. Somewhat more exciting were sightings of Bitter-vetch (Lathyrus linifolius) – not a species I see often at all marooned in urban Tyneside – and Tea-leaved Willow (Salix phylicifolia) growing along the banks. A little further upstream, a sizable patch of False Oxlip (Primula x polyantha) gave cause for pause and we spotted the first of the day’s Shrubby Cinquefoil (Dasiphora fruticosa) plants nestled among a crevice.

Further upstream, things began to pick up. First came some large patches of Globeflower (Trollius europaeus), another species characteristic of this special place, growing at the waterside and later, the early growth of Northern Bedstraw (Galium boreale). Growing beneath a mixed stand of Downy Birch (Betula pubescens) and the aforementioned willow, our attention was also drawn to a curious horsetail with a distinctly one-sided appearance. Remembering that this is a slightly unreliable feature of another rare plant, Shady Horsetail (Equisetum pratense), we decided on a closer look. I’m glad we did and sure enough, the ID was confirmed. Not exactly a standout plant but a nice one to see nonetheless.

Post horsetail, things quieted down a little but there were still interesting plants to be found (just about everyone at Teesdale is interesting if you look closer). Stone Bramble (Rubus saxatilis) came next, crawling across an area of riverside gravel, and it was nice to see more Shrubby Cinquefoil. Young examples of Juniper (Juniperus communis) were observed in the river banks and a few more Bird’s-eye Primrose enjoyed. As the rain began, we decided to head up knowing we would be back soon with some reinforcements in toe.

Late May

My word, what a difference a fortnight makes. Revisiting Upper Teesdale again last weekend, this time as part of the Botanist’s Year course I’m leading for the Natural History Society of Northumbria, Cow Green couldn’t have looked more different. The Spring Gentians had all but vanished besides a few tucked away on North-facing banks and even the Blue Moor grass had passed its best. Instead, what we saw was a different set of plants beginning to appear. Mountain Pansy and Bird’s-eye Primrose, both scarce on our previous visit, were now commonplace and it was nice to stumble across an intriguing white population of the former – not something I knew existed, I confess.

Besides these welcome flowers, other plants had begun to appear. I was beyond thrilled to encounter Moonwort (Botrychium lunaria) in two areas, having failed to find this inconspicuous little fern on several previous visits. In damper areas, Marsh Arrow-grass (Triglochin palustris) could be seen in flower and the rosettes of Butterwort (Pinguicula vulgaris) were clearly visible among a good cast of common sedge species and the leaves of Alpine Meadow-rue (Thalictrum alpinum).

In one of the fenced-off compounds, a single plant of Alpine Bistort (Bistorta vivipara) was noted in bloom and the first signs of Mountain Everlasting (Antennaria dioica) could be seen – I must remember to come back to see these later in the year. Otherwise, additional highlights here included Spring Sandwort (Sabulina verna) atop exposed patches of the sugar limestone and yet more Variegated Horsetail in soggy patches.

Concluding our time at Cow Green, the group opted for a short trip down to Falcon Clints. This wonderful gorge is about as rugged and beautiful as they come but isn’t for the faint-hearted. Indeed, even the ‘steps’ down from the fell are rather challenging. With little time on our hands, we did not have long to explore but in just a short while, encountered two of our target ferns: Parsley Fern (Cryptogramma crispa) and Green Spleenwort (Asplenium viride), both of which are rather common in rocky areas around Teesdale. The latter was tucked away on a ledge in the company of what looked like Lobed Mainhair-spleenwort (Asplenium trichomanes subsp. pachyrachis). Here too, it was nice to observe some cliff-dwelling Juniper (Juniperus communis) and Aspen (Populus tremula) shrubs and take stock of the more familiar fern species present including Hard Shield-fern (Polystichum aculeatum), Polypody (Polypodium vulgare) and Hard Fern (Blechnum spicant). A successful little detour and one I intend to make again later in the year.

All in all, the last few weeks have offered two fantastic opportunities to explore Teesdale’s special flora. With plenty more targets in mind, I’ll be back again very soon. In the meantime, here are just a few more photos from our second outing. Look out for more Teesdale updates soon!

Upper Teesdale in Spring

A short account of a spring visit to the botanical paradise that is Upper Teesdale.

As part of an ongoing course I’m leading for the Natural History Society of Northumbria, this past Saturday I had the pleasure of visiting the botanical paradise that is Upper Teesdale. Stopping first at Cow Green reservoir and travelling later to Bowlees for a walk upstream at Low Force, there was a great deal to see. Not least a great many fascinating plants! Highlights of our trip are captured below though this is far from exhaustive. Indeed, one of the few problems associated with visiting Teesdale is that there is always way too much to take in…

Cow Green first and having met attendees in the car park, we soon set off along the natural trail stopping every few meters to admire the flora of the sugar limestone here. Spring Gentians (Gentiana verna), perhaps the most sought-after of Teesdale’s plants, were numerous along the track sides and we paused too to admire Mountain Pansy (Viola lutea), Blue Moor Grass (Sesleria caerulea) and many Common Dog-violets (Viola riviniana) which try as we might, we could not transform into the fabled Teesdale Violet (Viola rupestris).

Further along the trail, our next stop was the series of sykes (wet flushes) that spill out over the track. Here we noted many blooming Bird’s-eye Primrose (Primula farinosa), another must-see plant, alongside the diminutive Variegated Horsetail (Equisetum variegatum), several examples of Butterwort (Pinguicula vulgaris) and a curious sedge retrospectively identified as Rare Spring-sedge (Carex ericetorum). We might have found far more here but alas, we did need to keep to schedule!

Grassland and exposed rocky areas beside the trail here also held an interesting mix of relic Wood Anemone (Anemone nemorosa), Spring Sandwort (Minuartia verna) and Knotted Pearlwort (Sagina nodosa) as well as commoner plants in Thrift (Armeria maritima), Sea Plantain (Plantago maritima) and Common Whitlowgrass (Erophila verna).

Heading back to our cars, our attention was drawn to a striking, blonde bumblebee basking on a tussock – a queen Moss Carder Bee (Bombus muscorum)! This isn’t a species I see often at all and it was nice to finally spot one in typical upland habitat. A stop at a rocky outcrop along the roadside here also provided a few interesting ferns, most notably Green Spleenwort (Asplenium viride), but there were also examples of Maidenhair Spleenwort (Asplenium trichomanes subsp. trichomanes). In the car park, a rather colourful beetle was revealed to be Carabus nitens – perhaps the most colourful of the UK’s ground beetles.

Following Cow Green, the decision was taken to relocate to Bowlees and following a spot of lunch at the superb visitor centre, we set off towards Low Force. Though not before stopping to admire a good-sized patch of Good-King-Henry (Blitum bonus-henricus) flowering at the roadside. At Low Force itself, insects breifly took over and we all enjoyed the sight of a huge nesting aggregation of Ashy Mining Bee (Andrena cineraria), as well as its associated cuckoo, Lathbury’s Nomad Bee (Nomada lathburiana). Here too there were Sandpit Mining Bee (Andrena barbilabris) and a few Clarke’s Mining Bee (Andrena clarkella) foraging on willow. Not to mention the whopping Violet Oil Beetle (Meloe violaceus) shown below.

The plants at Low Force were interesting also with Bitter Vetch (Lathyrus linifolius), Early Purple Orchid (Orchis mascula) and Tea-leaved Willow (Salix phylicifolia) noted.

Good-King-Henry (*Blitum bonus-henricus*)

Refocusing our efforts on the plants growing along the Tees, we were amazed by the diversity of the riverside flora pausing every few yards to admire something new. Globeflower (Trollius europaeus) was a highlight for many but we also observed Pyrenean Scurvygrass (Cochlearia pyrenaica), False Oxlip (Primula × polyantha), and Wood Horsetail (Equisetum sylvaticum).

Pyrenean Scurvygrass (*Cochlearia pyrenaica*)

We never did make it as far as High Force, the intended end point of the day’s outing – botanists seldom move at a brisk pace. We did, however, reach the mid-point where we were pleased to encounter Shrubby Cinquefoil (Dasiphora fruticosa), Northern Bedstraw (Galium boreale) and Stone Bramble (Rubus saxatilis) growing in the fissured rock lining the banks of the Tees.

All in all, we had a fantastic day in Teesdale. For several people, this marked their first experience of this wonderful part of the world and I’d like to think that many will be back in the future to explore the area further. I certainly will – even with three visits this year alone, I fear I am only just scratching the surface.

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Early May

Late May

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